At the Burrow DyeTable # 8: Pokeweed Racemes, Take 2
You have seen the results of the first pokeweed raceme experiment, but that is not all that has been cooking! Unbeknowst to you, I have been extracting a second bucket of pokeweed racemes! :D How cool is that? Mas racemes. Pretty fun.
Dyestuff: Pokeweed (phytolacca americana)
Parts used: The racemes (the part that holds the berries)
Source: My yard, the Haggencrone’s yard, my friend Debbie’s yard, and the Farm
Yarn: Mountain Meadows Cody, 100% wool. I mordanted a little differently this time, opting not to follow any instructions other than those given by the seat of my pants. I decided to use more vinegar than used in the vinegar mordant for the pokeberry dyebaths, and pretty much did a 1:3 ratio of white distilled vinegar to water. The reason for this is that in lieu of using straight acetic acid, I’m hoping the higher acid content will help with the fastness of this dye. So I soaked 100g of wool yarn in a pot of 1/4 vinegar to 3/4 water. I heated the pot to 190F and held it there for an hour. Then I let the yarn sit and cool in the mordant bath overnight. The starting pH at room temperature was 3.1. At 188.2F, it was 3.0.
Ratio of dyestuff to fiber: I only used half of the yarn I mordanted for this particular dyebath, so 50g total. I’m not sure of the exact amount of racemes. I didn’t weigh them out, as this was done on a whim. But I can tell you that when I pulled them all from the bucket, they easily weighed a pound. But I’m sure most of that was the vinegar that they absorbed. I’m going to say maybe 100g starting weight, and next time I promise to weigh them out.
Extraction: Chucked the racemes into a bucket and covered them in white distilled vinegar. Put a plate on top to hold them down. Left them for a couple months. As you can see, these didn’t leach out the way the other ones did. I think that had I put more vinegar in, they would have. They were pretty compacted in this bucket.
Dyebath: I strained out the racemes and reserved the dye liquor, pouring it into the dyepot. To this I added the remains of the mordanting bath. The starting pH of the dyebath was 3.5. I gently raised the temperature to a window between 175-195F. At temperature, the pH was 3.2. I held the bath in this temperature window for 2 hours and then let the yarn cool in the pot overnight.
Again, unexpected. This time we had a much higher dyestuff to fiber ratio, but we still didn’t get the red that they dyebath seemed to promise. Why? I’m not sure. I think it could be one of several things. 1) Perhaps although the bath looks red, there really isn’t enough of that compound in it to dye the yarn? 2) Although the dyebath never boiled, perhaps it would have preferred to stay under 190F? Even the next morning, when I took the yarn out, the bath was still full of colour. It just wasn’t on the yarn. Will have to play with this more… Anyway, I think it’s a lovely soft yellow ochre, and I’m sure I’ll find something nice to knit with it.
Here you can see it next to the all-in-one raceme skein from the day before. I am surprised that the slight difference in dye methods yielded such different tones. Or was it something inherent in that first batch of racemes collected earlier? Could it be due to the complete leaching of those first racemes? I’m not sure. Two nice colours, I think, though. I’m eager to see how their lightfastness test turns out…